ALWAYS LIGHT THIS LANTERN OUTSIDE
1. A few drops of oil will help lubricate the plunger. (DO IT NOW!) Turn the knurled plunger retainer cap (rough feeling thing under small knob) counter clockwise (left). When opened, a few drops of oil (any kind) will do. If need be, scrape the leather for more friction. Now ... re-tighten the retainer cap (push down and turn it to the right till snug).
2. Unscrew the pressure gauge and fill the lantern with KEROSENE, the fuel of choice, (The cheap stuff). DO NOT OVERFILL ... tilt the lantern 15 degrees with cap off, ....if no fuel pours out of it, then you're o.k. Retighten the gauge and the pressure release valve.
3. Make sure the control knob (the big roundy looking thing has the arrow pointed to twelve o'clock (up). This is the OFF position .... (VERY, VERY important).
4. Hold tank firmly (big bright thing on the bottom of the lantern) Now pump the lantern (little roundy knob thingy), till you get that RED LINE on the indicator. I should sound fumy while pumping (kinda like "pfffffft")...that O.K. .... it's working. When finished pumping, lock the knob.
5. You DO NOT have to pre-burn a new mantle. On the pre-heater (that's the little flippy thing-a-majig), there's a slot to place a flame. Put an open flame into it now, and flip the lever down. WHOAAAAH!!...WHAT A FLAME!! O.K_Let the pre-heater bum for a least a minute with oil base fuels. (Aw, shucks, look at your watch). It if doesn't light now . .... shut off the pre-heater so you don't flood the lantern with raw fuel. Check your pressure indicator .... re-pump .... then try to relight it.
IF YOU USE STRAIGHT COLEMAN FUEL OR GASOLINE IMMEDIATELY LIGHT THE LANTERN!!! YOU DO NOT PREHEAT!!! PRE-BURN A NEW MANTLE WITH COLEMAN OR GASOLINE.
6. Now turn the control knob (big roundy thing) around until the arrow points to six o'clock (down). The mantle should light up (kinda reddish glow for first 30 seconds or so), and the lamp should start to get bright now. HEY!! .... SHUT OFF THAT PRE-HEATER!!!!! If you have some black spots on the mantle, re-pump the lantern ... turn the control knob from six o'clock to one or two o'clock, and then back to six o'clock a few times .... or leave it at six o'clock. This should clear the black off the mantle. GO AHEAD .... TEASE IT!!!! C'MON WELL, AW-RITY, THEN.
7. Now .... firmly hold the base tank again (you know ... that bright shinny thing on the bottom), and pump it until you get a "Y" on the indicator. (BOY .... it should REALLY be bright now)!!! By the way .... if you shake the lantern hard, while pumping it YOU WILL BREAK THE MANTLE SO DON'T DO THAT!!!1!! You'll have to buy a new mantle, if you do. OX now where were we? OH, YEAH (Are you tired, yet? I know I am.) Whew! alrighty then ... SOONER OR LATER...the lantern will start to get dimmer. BEFORE IT GOES OUT ... re-pump, and it will get bright again. DON'T FORGET WHAT I SAID ABOUT THAT MANTLE!!
Now lookie here that wasn't so hard, was it? SMILE! YOU DID IT!!! (The crowd roars with applause standing ovation. YEAAAHHH!)
ITSIE-BITSY TID-BITS: (Just in case you need 'em)
1. Read over the "Trouble Shooting Pointers, Possible Problems" sheet that was sent with your lantern.
2. Every so often, about every I Oth or 12th time used, take a capful of liquid carburetor cleaner or fuel injector cleaner and pour it into the tank with your fuel. What this does is CLEAN the internal brass parts, including the tank, and bums out any condensated water. JUST ONE CAPFUL IS SUFFICIENT .... just depends on how much you use the lantern.
3. DO NOT .... store fuel in the lantern for long periods of time. Different fuels have different break-down periods .... like, you know...kerosene. Kerosene usually varnishes within 4 to 6 months. (NOT GOOD FOR YOUR LANTERN.)
4. CHECK ALL FITTINGS FOR LEAKS Shipping can cause the parts to loosen up. Tighten them up, if a flame is coming from other than the mantle. MAKE SURE YOU DON'T LOSE THE FILLER CAP WASHER (the rubber washer - #11 in your parts book) on your first fill-up. It should seat really good after the first lighting of the lantern .... you know .... kind of an expansion thing.
5. IF THERE IS FUEL IN THE TANK, when changing a globe or mantle, RELEASE THE TANK PRESSURE, and turn the pointer on the light brightness control knob down to six o'clock this protects the needle (Part #68), NOT TO MENTION, IT KEEPS FUEL OUT OF YOUR FACE. After replacing the upper portion of the lantern .... turn the knob to twelve o'clock when finished.
6. A little bar of hand soap on the nozzle threads (part #3), will keep it from vibrating loose.
7. EXTREMELY COLD AREAS, or above 6,000 feet above sea level a 25% mix of Coleman fuel or gasoline with the kerosene will make the lantern easier to start and will not harm the operation or efficiency of the lantern. You may have to bum straight Coleman or Gasoline at higher elevations or at sub-zero temperatures.
8. PETROMAX mantles will outlast all other mantles, and are NOT RADIOACTIVE, to give off a brighter light.
9. If you have a problem PUMPING UP to the RED LINE scrape the leather washer on the plunger this will give you more friction.
10. KEROSENE is the most efficient and trouble-free fuel to use in the PETROMAX LANTERNS. got mosquitoes? (And who doesn't?) .... try CITRONELLA oil WITH KEROSENE. Just a 25% mixture is a good amount to start with. Diesel oil or lamp oil (scented or unscented) will work well and not harm the lantern.
11. Remove a BROKEN MANTLE and replaced IMMEDIATELY, or it will bum a hole through the glass globe or melt the seal on the bottom of the vaporizer tube. In extreme cold conditions, let the LANTERN COOL DOWN on a low fight for about five (5) or ten (10) minutes before shutting it off .... keeps the glass globe from cracking. (It's kinda like quieting down a diesel engine.)
O.K. NOW YOU'RE AN EXPERT, SO ENJOY!!!!!
* Remember to always use battery operated smoke detectors and carbon monoxide detectors in the home. It is prudent to protect yourself from any potential hazards of using ANY fuel burning appliance in your home.
v2.8 Last modified Monday, March 23, 2009 20:03:13